
Ludwig & Gertie's Adventures
The more or less interesting lives & times of our 1974 VW Campmobile, Ludwig and our 1971 VW Squareback, Gertrude
July 29, 2025
One-Nighter at Yellowstone's Madison Campground

June 27, 2025
Great Divide Rally 2025
Actually, E drove a good chunk of the way there as well.The evening before the rally I took a walk on the flanks of Mount Helena, at a friend's suggestion. Helena is one of Montana's most nicely situated cities, I think. E wanted to be perfectly rested for driving the next day and stayed behind at the hotel.
This black Audi wagon is owned and was helmed by the L family, of whom RL alerted me to the existence of the rally. Thanks, RL!
This was either a bit before or a bit after going over a horrifying citizen-created speedbump (not sure how that's legal, but). The road book warned of its existence and E was appropriately cautious driving over it, but Ludwig's front license plate still scraped the ground. (The Ls said their car nearly high-centered on it.)
At the end of the first stage in Birdseye we got this obligatory artsy shot of the only other air-cooled, rear-engined participating vehicle: an orange (same orange as Ludwig) 1974 (same year as Ludwig) VW Type 181, aka 'Thing'.
The next stage climbed over the Great Divide at Flesher Pass on MT State Secondary 279.
December 11, 2024
49 > 8
Eagle-eyed readers may have noticed that Ludwig has new license plates. Well, new old plates. Different plates.
A long time ago I bought a 1974 set from Fergus County (8) and jumped through the minor hoops required to get them legal. While we lived there I sporadically looked for some from Missoula County (4) and found a couple pairs, but being a much-desired county number they were out of our range...a couple hundred dollars a pair if I remember correctly. When we lived in Deer Lodge County (30) I looked for tags with that number but never found any.
I'd mostly given up but recently stumbled upon a Park County (49) pair and snatched them up toot suite.
(By the way, if anyone has a line on a pair of 1971 Park County MT plates for Gertie, I'd love to hear about it. She sports Yellowstone County (3) plates currently.)
<pedantic text>
Like a few other states, the leading number on Montana's license plates denotes the county where they were issued. Like all but one* of those states, the county's number is determined by its population at the time they developed the system; in Montana's case they used the figures from the 1920 census. And here arises a minor mystery.
Why was Park County assigned 49? There are 56 counties in Montana and Park County was never anywhere near the bottom seven or even the bottom thirty in population. It should have been assigned 9, in fact. (If the numbers were reassigned according to the 2020 census it'd be 11.)
I asked the question on a facebook community page and, naturally, received mostly tinfoil hat-type answers. There were bribes involved (why?); someone on the license plate numbers commission was jilted by a lover from Livingston; the railroad did it for opaque reasons, blah blah blah. One person responded with what is almost certainly the correct answer: it was a simple transposition error. Powder River County got the 9 Park County shoulda gotten and vice versa.
Some year I'll delve into the newspaper and transportation department archives to confirm this, but until then I'm applying Occam's Razor.
*Wyoming has a bonkers scheme where the county numbers are assigned in order of the total value of each county's taxable property, as of 1930.
October 30, 2024
Mallard's Rest
Mallard's Rest is a fishing access site south of us on US 89 with a good number of campsites. Being just off the road there's a fair amount of noise, and being an FAS it's really more about fishing boats than camping, but it's easy as hell to get to and there are actually a few pretty decent sites. It's a good place to just go and laze and throw rocks into a river. And it's fantastic place for observing alpenglow (not pictured).
September 10, 2024
Weekend in the Castles
We camped at Grasshopper Campground, east of White Sulphur Springs in the Castle Mountains, with another VW family. It's a bit less than two hours away.