Myth: They're cold!
Rant: Yes, they sure can be. But it wasn't always so.
Being air-cooled, old VWs don't have a reservoir of very hot water to draw from when it comes time to warm up the cabin. So what die Ingenieure did was build a box around a big chunk of the exhaust system. That box's purpose is to get the air it held really hot (courtesy of the exhaust piping) and send it into the cabin on demand. They're called 'heat exchangers' or 'heater boxes'.
image cribbed from ratwell.com
So what went wrong? There're a few problems. One, if there are any leaks in the ductwork between the heat exchangers and the cabin, heat pours out like crazy before it gets to the cabin. Unfortunately, some of the ducting (in Beetles, Type IIIs, and Karmann Ghias at least) is routed through areas which are very much prone to rust. Two, if the car itself isn't sealed well, say because of rotten 40 year-old door seals or poorly fitting two month-old aftermarket door seals, heat is lost that way too (my buddy's '71 was about watertight). Most cars probably have a combination of these two problems. Compounding things, the problem is often magnified by greater expectations. That is, if you're the kind of lazy person who expects to be able to adjust your car's heater to the degree, and by each area of the cabin, then you're not going to be satisfied by anything an old VW can offer you in the way of heat, or likely anything else. Get a Chrysler, and good riddance.
image cribbed from some other guy
In water-cooled cars, if you have a leak in the heating system you lose coolant and the car alerts you to this, one way or another, because a coolant leak will eventually kill it. In an air-cooled car, if you have a leak in the heating system you just have an anemic heater. Multiply this by millions of old Volkswagens rusting and leaking their way through the 1980s, 1990s, and 2000s, and you've got the making of a piece of common 'knowledge' on your hands. But the fact is that a properly maintained ACVW heating system works just fine.
3 comments:
... And to continue, if you have a bug, the distance between the engine and the heat ducts is someone short. the heat has to travel less than 6 feet of ducts to reach your air. I have been in a convertible bug in the winter with the top down - toasty warm. Those things are amazing.
A bus has a longer distance between the heat exchangers and the vents, and more opportunity for the air to cool down. If you really want to be toasty, try re-insulating that long tube that runs the length of the bus.
My two cents.
-p
PJA:
I appreciate you adding your spot-on two cents.
Alright,
whc03grady.
I've found that much of the heat I enjoy in my '63 bug comes when the engine is in the top of a gear (4th, usually) for an extended period of time.
That is, at idle, or slow speeds, I don't get much heat. Thus the morning warm up and drive through the neighborhood is, uh, eye opening.
But once I get on to the main road, and get up to 55, the heat starts pouring in. 10 minutes later I could take off my jacket and be comfortable.
Which brings me to the last bit of insight into the conditioned air of a VW bug. The smoker's window is key!
A closed smoker's window doesn't allow heat to flow into the passenger area completely. A slightly open smoker's window (like the ad says) will make the driver the warmest. Nice and toasty. A wide open smoker's window will regulate the over-heating of a passenger compartment. regulate with the windows! Not the knob by the stick shift.
Peter's right: less distance and a smaller space make the bug easy to warm up. This is slightly different than Big Blue where all the heat stays up front and anyone in the back of the bus is still very, very cold (being a panel, we don't have any vents in back like some buses do).
I'm glad you took on this myth. I've had to explain it to people several times when they say, "Fun car, but those things are cold in the winter, right?"
-Brett
Post a Comment